Soft collar of the turned down type



Feb 23 19 43. L.- l. GOLDENK oFF 2 31 SOFT COLLAR OF THE TURND DOWN TYPE Filed April. 3, 1941 2 Sheets Sh l eet l l Lou/.5 L GoLDEN/foff INV ENTOR.

A TTQRNIEY,

Feb. 23, 1943. l.. L. GOLDENKC'JFF SOFT COLLAR OF THE TURNED DOWN TYPE Filed April. '5, 1941 2 sheets-sheet 2 LOU/5 L GOLDEN/(OFF INVENTOR BY WJWM Afro/mex l Patented Feb. 23, 1943 UNITED STATES `PATENT OFFICE r l 2,311,897 Y SOFT COLLAR `or THE TURNED DOWN TYPE l Louis L. Goldenkoff, Louisville, Ky.

Application .April s, 1941,y serial No. 386,605 v a ciaims. .(01. 2 132) Theobject ofthe inventionsis` a soft-collar of the turned down type adapted to be braced 01 stiiened at the free corners by the-insertionof bars of Celluloid orthe like intor suitable pockets of the collar. Y

, Such lpockets until now have corresponded to either of two types, being directed either parallel to the upright edges of the collar orat an angle thereto. f

It has been found thatforpersons witha certain form of the corresponding parts of body one of these types of stiiening is rbest suited, and for other persons the other type of stiiening.

This means that two types of collars have to be kept on stock, which means a veryY undesirable complication. n

Ithas already been proposed to overcome this drawback by providing the collar atoeach of the free corners with a wide V-shapedor sectorshaped pocket in which a stiffening strip is adjustable, selectively, to a plurality of vangular positions around a pivot provided at its lowerwend. The strip is supposed to be held in the adjusted position by friction supplied by rough Vareas provided in the pocket.

This construction is not only-much-too complicated, but thestrip is-not Aheld thereby-in the adjusted position with any degree of reliability, and an effective 'stiffeningof -thelowermostpart of said corner, lpart'most exposed -tounsightly deformation, cannot be secured in this manner.

The invention avoids all these disadvantages in an extremely simple and reliable manner by providing a soft collar of the turned down type having a vmultiply outer fold and having at each end of such outer fold a pair of rows of stitching, converging downwardly towards the free corner of such fold, and, within the field conned by such rows, a second pair of rows of stitching, said two pairs confining between themselves two .pockets for the alternate reception of a stiffening strip in either of two predetermined fixed positions, one of these positions substantially lparallel to the upright edge of said fold, the other of these positions at an angle thereto.

Further features and advantages of the invention will be seen from the following description thereof.

In the annexed drawings only so much of a collar and its production is shown by way of example as is necessary for understanding the invention, only one half of the outer fold, top or apron of a collar being shown, the inner fold or band of the collar being omitted, as not connected 11;. I Fig..13 an elevation of the workpiece shown in with .the invention. Many ydimensions are exaggerated.

In the drawings is:

Fig. 1 .an elevation of. thatply which is to become the inner surface ply of the collar apron;

Fig. 2 an elevation of said ply in a later stage of production;

Fig. 3 a section on the line `3--3r of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 a section on the yline 4- 4 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 an elevation of a supplement patch;

1ig.,6A an elevation like that of Fig. 2 with the supplement appliedy;`

Fig, 7 ,a section on the line le? of Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 a section on the line 8 8 of Fig. 6; Fig. 9 an elevation of that ply which is to become, finally, the outer surfaceplyV of thecollar apron;

Fig. 10 an elevation of that ply 4 which is to beco1neiinally, the iiller or insert of the apron; Fig.` 11 an elevation as seenlooking'upon the inner surface .ply and patch after attaching to it,

ybvyv'sewing yor stitching, the plies shown in Figs. 9 and 10;y l

Fig. 12 afsection on the broken line I 2| 2fof Figs. 1I and 12 after having ybeenl turned inside ...Figa/14 a section onthe line 4 Illylief Fig ..13;

'l Fig. `15 an elevation of the workpieceof Fig. 13 as seen from the opposite or front side;Y

Fig. Y16 jan. elevation of a stiiener strip;

Fig. lanlelevation like Fig.' 13 with inserted'in one of its two .positionsj Fig. 18 a similar elevation with the strip in its other position.

The fabric ply I9 (Fig. 1) is to become the inner surface ply of the apron. This ply is provided with a cutout or notch 20 having two converging edges 2| and 22 resulting in a V-shaped form with the apex at 23. There a short slit 24 is provided.

The parts or stripes 25 and 26, -adjacent the edges 2| and 22, are then turned over around the lines 21 and 28 and are doubled back upon the ply I9, as shown in Figs. 2, 3 and 4.

Thereafter the supplement patch 29, shown in Fig. 5, is superposed upon the ply I9 so that three of its sides coincide with the corresponding sides of said ply, whereas the fourth side 30 crosses the ply (Fig. 6).

Now the parts I9 and 29 are united by stitching i. e. they are sewn together.

One row of stitching 3| runs from the point 32 parallel to and near by the line 21 and, simulthe strip taeously with holding together the parts I9 and 29, secures to them and holds in place the stripe 25.

Within the field or area conned by the stitching 3| and the upright edge 33 of the collar are provided two further rows of stitching 34 and 35 parallel to the stitching 3| and the edge 33 respectively and, therefore, converging in a V- shaped form towards the point 36.

Preferably the upper ends of the stitchings 34 and 35 are bridged or connected by a row of stitching 31, parallel to and near by the edge or line 26.

The so formed triangular group of stitchings 34, 35, 31 united and holds together the parts I9, 29 and 26.

Now the outside ply 38 (Fig. 9) and ller or insert ply 39 (Fig. 10) of the same form as the ply I9, but not provided with a cutout, are assembled with the structure shown in Fig. 6 in the sequence 39, 33, I9, 29, shown in Fig. 12.

Thereupon these plies are united by the usual rows of stitching 40 and 4| parallel to and near by the upright edge 33 and the lower edge 42, respectively.

The structure now forms a wide multiply bag held together by the stitchings 40 and 4|.

This bag is now turned inside out as shown in Figs. 13 and 14. Such turning or reversing is possible because, as described above, the intermediary stitchings 3|, 34, 35, 31 pass only through the plies I9 and 29, but not through the plies 38, 39, as is to be seen from the front elevation Fig. 15. Consequently, the stitchings, necessary for the stiiening devices, are not visible from the outside.

The sequence of the plies is now 33, 39, 29, |9, as shown in Fig. 14.

A stiffening strip or brace 43 (Fig. 16) has a. lower edge 44 so obliquely directed that the angularity of the point 45 of the strip corresponds to the angle between the stitchings 49 and 3|.

By the stitchings 35 and 49 is conned, between the plies |9 and 29, a channel or pocket, parallel to the upright edge 33 of the collar, for the insertion of the strip 43 in the position shown in Fig. 17.

In this position, the point 45 of the strip extends well down to the collar point 32 so that,

the free corner of the collar is very eiectively stiiened.

The edge 44 of the strip points to the left from the point 45 in this position of the strip.

On the other hand, by the stitchings 3| and 34 is confined, between the plies I9 and 29, a channel or pocket parallel to the stitching 3| and, therefore, at an angle to the upright edge 33 of the collar.

If the strip 43 is taken out of the position of Fig. 17, turned around its longitudinal axis and inserted between the stitchings 3| and 34 to the position shown in Fig. 18, the point 45 of the strip again extends well down to the collar point 32, with the side 44, as viewed from point 45 towards the other end of the strip, now pointing to the right from said point 45, s0 that the` free corner of the collar is again very effectively stiiened. This effective stiening, down to the extreme corner, in two different positions, is made possible by the fact, that the lower part of the pocket between the points 32 and 36 is common t0 both pockets or channels described.

This, therefore, is a very important feature.

The aps or strips 25 and 2G not only form a reinforcement for the edges 21 and 28 but also have a slight yet very convenient non-rigid tiffening elect supplementing that of the strip Of course, the above described outer fold or apron of the collar is to be attached to an inner fold or band by stitching or sewing along the upper edge 46 (Figs. 14, 18). This part of the production is not described here for not forming part of the invention.

I claim:

l. A soft collar of the turned down type having a multiply outer fold and having at each end of such outer fold a pair of rows of stitching converging downwardly towards the free corner of such fold and, within the eld conned by such rows, a second pair of rows of stitching, said two pairs confining between themselves two pockets for the alternate reception of a stiiening strip in either of two predetermined fixed positions, one of these positions substantially parallel to the upright edge of said fold, the other of these positions at an angle thereto.

2. A collar as claimed in claim 1 in which the two pockets have their lower part in common.

3. A collar as claimed in claim 1 in which said second pair of rows of stitching is at the upper end bridged by a transverse row of stitching to form a closed triangle of stitches.

LOUIS L. GOLDENKOFF. 

